Textiles represent one of the largest end-uses of plastics, with more than 60% of clothing and household textiles in Europe made from synthetic fibres such as polyester, nylon, and acrylic. (1) Despite this dominance, circularity in textiles remains extremely low: less than 2% of post-consumer textiles are recycled back into fibres. At the same time, EU legislation, particularly the Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles and the revised Waste Framework Directive, now requires all Member States to establish separate collection of textiles from 2025 onwards and introduces extended producer responsibility schemes. This creates both a pressing challenge and a window of opportunity for systemic solutions.
The Circularity in Textiles spearhead is built on the recognition that textiles in their current form contribute significantly to plastic waste, but also that Finnish actors are exceptionally well placed to pioneer bio-based and recycled alternatives. Finland has already been a frontrunner in introducing separate textile waste collection (from 2021), and investments in refinement plants operated by LSJH and Rester provide a basis for scaling fibre-to-fibre recycling. Alongside this infrastructure, Finnish companies such as Infinited Fiber Company, Spinnova and Metsä Group have gained international visibility for innovations that convert textile waste or renewable widely available raw materials into high-quality fibres, demonstrating both technological feasibility and market potential. Large machine suppliers Valmet, Andritz and BMH are all developing equipments to master circularity of textiles and enable production of bio-based alternatives of plastic fibres.
The spearhead promotes a systemic approach, extending beyond recycling to renewable raw materials, reuse, repair, and the design of garments for longer lifecycles. Research and innovation needs identified include the development of monomaterials for easier recycling, mandatory use of recycled content, improved durability and repairability of garments, and the creation of new business models such as service-based clothing systems. Emphasis is also placed on overcoming structural challenges such as weak value chains, fragmented infrastructure, and economic barriers related to taxation and profitability.
